Spring, have you met New York?

Taking a short break from travelogues to say: despite proclamations of spring, it's still COLD in New York. I just can't take it anymore. I like distinct seasons, but must winter be six months long?

Still dressing for chilly weather :

American Apparel black long sleeve tee

Insight high waisted flannel skirt

Sisley wool leg warmers

Cairns, the Bat Show

Look closely at those black dots in the sunset, they are not birds. Every evening in Cairns, thousands of enormous bats fly to the mountains. In day time, they hang upside down from trees in the middle of town, loudly screeching and shaking. Quite a scary sight.

Outdoor drinking on Ba8's patio, with Marina views :

The Lagoon at night :

Cairns, Crocodiles and Kangaroos, Oh My...

A and I have an "All Time Favorite Restaurants" list spanning multiple continents.   In Cairns, Ochre cruised right into this category with inventive usage of indigenous Australian ingredients.  We had a quiet, memorable celebration here. I could not have wished for a better evening :  Ochre's lovely space painted in colors reminiscent of the Outback, tropical evening breeze, beautiful food, intoxicating drinks, and most importantly, the love of my life.

Wattle Seed Damper Loaf, Peanut Oil and Native Dukka :

Wattle Seed has a nutty, almost coffee like flavor.  The loaf was delivered to our table warm, to be dipped in oil and Dukka, a cripy spice blend.  Simple and delicious.

Salt and Native Pepper Leaf Crocodile and Prawns, Lemon Aspen Sambal :

Crocodile was very mild,  I think even more so than chicken.  It is a white meat that basically tasted like the sauce it was cooked in.  This version was tangy and slightly spicy.

Char Grilled Kangaroo Sirloin – Quandong Chilli Glaze – Sweet Potato Fritter and Bok Choy :

Kangaroo meat can be tough, but Ochre's version was perfectly seared and tender.  It tasted like dry aged steak.  This whole dish was wonderful.

Fresh Barramundi Fillet Lemongrass Beurre Blanc, Cassava Chips and Wasabi roe :

Barramundi is a very mild and meaty Australian fish.  Ochre's version had a light sauce which did not overpower the fish, but enhanced its fresh sweetness.  

Roast Duck Breast, Confit Leg – Asian Green Salad - Davidson Plum and Sambal Sauce :

Desert Plum Sorbet, Lime Sorbet, Seasonal Tropical Fruits : 

My favorite sorbet!  Intense plum flavor, not too sweet, perfect. 

Cairns, All in a View

In Cairns, I seriously questioned my quality of living back in New York City.  I'm not referring to income, real-estate, or ownership of any other material goods. In travel, you observe how lives are lived elsewhere in the world.  Sometimes, it makes you appreciate your place of dwelling, but always, you find a way in which your own well-being can be improved.

In New York, you work, a lot.  Not because you want to, but because you feel you need to. Perhaps, you don't?  While hard at work, you may miss what matters in this very short life : family, love, relationships, positively impacting other lives, and sunshine... You do not need a six, seven figure salary for any of these.  Cairns was not the first time I came to such a realization, but I definitely, needed a reminder.

The Lagoon - a public infinity pool filled with families, located in Cairns' Central Business District, right on a city block.  People on their way to and from can just jump in to cool-off.  There are no gates, memberships, or fees...

View of Cairns from a distance :

Sometimes procrastination can get you amazing deals :

Plush lodging for little money due to recent stormy weather :

View from our balcony :

Cairns, Great Barrier Reefs

Words, and even pictures cannot justly depict its magic.   Swimming in 80 degree waters at the Great Barrier Reef, we were surrounded by beautiful sea turtles,  yellow and grey rays, giant sea clams ( bigger than us ), and schools of neon colored fish, gracefully going about their day.  

Aerial view of shimmering reefs:

Walking amidst the ocean, on a pristine sand cay, hundreds of miles from shore:

Large fishes swimming near our boat:

Vibrant marine life under the surface ( from a disposable camera )

Cairns, Love at First Sight

Cairns, for us, was the main event. Most visitors to the Great Barrier Reef use Cairns as their starting point, hence it is expectedly touristy, but I fell in love nonetheless. Positioned on the coast of North Queensland, this beautiful city feels more like a small beach town dressed in lush tropical flora.

While still enduring torrential rain in Sydney, we had heard about cyclones and floods around Cairns. Even as we boarded our north bound flight, forecasts were still calling for thunderstorms there. However, all of our apprehension dissipated by the time we arrived at our hotel. Cairns was hot, not raining, and breathtaking.

I love beaches and oceans, but a mix of mountain and ocean is my absolute favorite landscape. After checking in and ditching our long sleeves, we were breathing in Cairns' humid tropical air from our balcony, while being completely absorbed by this brilliant sunset.  I thought, this is perfection, even if it rains.

Sydney, Life's a Beach

One could spend days just beach hopping in Sydney.  Bondi and Manly are Sydney's more well known beaches, but there are many more, some linked by scenic coastal walks. When the sun finally surfaced, we were beach bound.

Surf's up at Bondi :

Rock cliffs and turquoise water :

Aussie brew and fresh seafood at Jordon's back in Darling Harbour :

Soft Shell Crab, Fish & Chips :

Spiced Calamari :

Sydney, Surry Hills

In Surry Hills,  a hip inner city neighborhood reminiscent of New York City's Chelsea,  we found our favorite Sydney restaurant.  Longrain, served some of the best Thai food we've had outside of Thailand.  Lengthy, wooden communal tables and sparse embellishments,  this converted warehouse space feels open and modern.

Although better described as modern Thai cuisine with Chinese influence, Longrain stays closely rooted in concepts of Thai cooking.  Complex mix of flavors and exploding with fresh herbs, every dish we tasted was memorable.

Crispy Duck with Banana Blossom Pomelo & Sweet Fish Sauce :

Dry Red Curry of Ocean Trout, Snake Beans, Wild Ginger & Holy Basil :

Betel Leaf Topped with Prawn :

Freshly Shucked Sydney Rock Oysters with Fried Eschalots & Red Chili Lime :

Sour Orange Curry of Mud Crab & Prawn :

Cripsy Fried Barossa Chicken with Blood Plum Sauce & Szechuan Pepper :

Palm Sugar Ice Cream with Caramelized Figs :

Fresh Lemon Grass Tea :

Sydney, Harbour Bridge

Dark and seemingly omnipresent in pictures, Sydney Harbour bridge links Central Business District to North Sydney.  A walk across it offers beautiful views of both sides, and a chance to explore less touristy neighborhoods on the north shore.

Rooftop beer garden at Glenmore Hotel, with Sydney Harbour Bridge as its backdrop :

Bridge view from south shore :

Entrance near the Rocks :

View of iconic Sydney Opera House from the bridge :

Looking back :

View of North Sydney :

Discovering cafes and restaurants in a laid back residential neighborhood in North Sydney.

Australians love their coffee.  Espresso bars are everywhere, and not a single bad Latte was had on this trip.  

Taking shelter from rain while sitting down to a Latte at Freckle Face Cafe :